Cambridge District Scout Archives
The pictures below are from C T Wood’s album of 1922 and show hobnailed boots used in walking and climbing in the Lake District. Most do not show the features of the specialist climbing patterns (below) that emphasise the edges of the sole. They may be a pattern that is not designed for a specific climbing task but for all walking/ climbing terrains. More likely they are a generalised hobnailing for rural or industrial work.
A leaders shoe, below, showing a pattern that I have not seen elsewhere. The camp was not in notable ‘climbing’ country. This is clearly a shoe, not a boot.
Hobnailed boots were formerly used for mountaineering to grip on sloping rock surfaces. Mountaineering hobnailed boots tended to have large pointed hobnails on the extreme edges of the soles and heels to grip small roughness on steeply sloping rock and on snow, particularly before crampons were used.
The hob nails wear down quickly and are hard to replace. The firm soles needed are unforgiving and the nails conduct heat away very quickly in winter. They give reduced grip on smooth or sloping rocks and hard ice. They work well on rough rock, edgy holds and vegetation. When walking becomes climbing (graded climbs) they are inferior to modern soles.
This illustration shows styles with one to three different hob nails. They were adapted to local climbing needs. It is difficult to judge to what extent this was regional pride, local usage or a fine appreciation of very local rock conditions.
‘The vibram sole has become the best all round compound for mountain use.’ (http://glencoemountaineer.blogspot.com) And on an individual basis they are less destructive than a hob nailed boot.
Hobnail boots damage the landscape.
Invented 1938 in Italy following a number of deaths attributed to inadequacy of hob nails they were rare until some time after the war.
1957 Bob Eden of the 5th recalls preparation for a Lake District. ‘Preparation for mountain climbing included purchasing ex-army boots and bashing in star-mugger and Triconi 6 nails into the soles. Then lots of painful walking well beforehand to to break-in these boots in a futile attempt to avoid painful blisters.’
Vibram was made of treated rubber the first successful ascent of K2 was with Virbam soled boots. This form of sole is now standard for general mountain wear.
1949 A 12th Cambridge report of a hike on the Kander Glacier (c 10,000′ or 3000 m) gives the following ‘lucky to be going on the climb at all without proper boots’ ‘realised the advantage of having nailed boots’ ‘Peter, who had rubber soles on his shoes slid back into the arms… , I who had crepe soles, which was rather better than rubber, but not a lot… also had difficulty’ . Their guide, Ueli, cut steps and at one point they borrowed ice axes from a converging party.
Note the ‘shoes’ in the description above – clearly differentiated from others who had boots.
JWR Archivist Jan 2019